Copyright © Kultúrkombinát Ltd., 2014
Translation © Sue Foy, 2014

Editors: András Csejdy, László Valuska
Translator: Sue Foy

Published by Libri-Shopline PLC and Kultúrkombinát Ltd., 2014
CEO: Ákos Starcz
www.bookline.hu

Writers: Dániel Bart, Albert Gazda, Renátó Horváth, Lajos Jánossy, András Jókúti, Eni Rostás, Gergő Salamon, Péter Szűcs, György Újvári-Pintér, Ildikó Tőke

Publisher’s Reader: Madeleine Bachuretz

Cover design, book layout and map drawings: Cristina Grosan
Ebook layout and markup: Lajos Nagy

Photographs copyright:
Gábor Valuska, Bertalan Soós, Kalló Péter, Mohai Balázs, Márk Somay

Managing Editor: Laura Faludi

All rights reserved
No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher

Distributor:
eKönyv Magyarország Kft.
www.ekonyv.hu

ISBN 978 96 3898 554 5

Preface

Welcome to Budapest!

Travelers understand that really getting to know a city in a short period of time is impossible. Visitors can only get a general impression of the culture, the spirit of the place and its people. In terms of planning an itinerary, blogs, websites, Facebook and TripAdvisor can offer practical help. Much better, however, are first-hand sources of information, such as friends and acquaintances that live in the city and can assemble lengthy emails with must-see neighborhoods, streets, pubs, restaurants and parks that would never be found in traditional guidebooks.

In this book, we maintain this kind of personal recommendation style, so that every reader can get reliable, insider information on one of the world’s top travel destinations.

Budapest is an extraordinary city, a hip and fashionable destination that most tourists vow to return to and, as the large expat community attests, many visitors choose to never leave. “This classic masterpiece of a city gives off a different feeling than other European cities. There is so much to see, great food and easy navigation”, says one reader. “The gorgeous residences and buildings are gracious and grand,” writes CNN Travel about Budapest in one of its top lists. According to TripAdvisor, the world’s most popular travel site, Budapest is wedged between Bangkok and Sydney as the 21st best travel destination. Pinterest also chose Budapest as its 30th “most pinned” place. Though useful, these kinds of recommendations usually concentrate on the sights rather than lifestyle, thereby overlooking the importance of Budapest’s gastronomy, entertainment, and culture.

In our book, you won’t find the common list of museums, memorials and scenic spots featured over and over in the traditional guides. We want to acquaint you with hidden gems, such as the inner workings of Budapest’s famous pub district. In the past few years, this historic part of the inner city has grown into one of Europe’s biggest nightlife and entertainment districts. Over 150 establishments now do business in the historic ghetto. The milling crowd on Kazinczy utca starting on Thursday night turns into a veritable festival. The district is packed with options and each place is different, so we’ve gathered the top food, drink and cultural critics native to the area to give you a comprehensive review of the most important and interesting places. One is wallpapered with comic books, while another gives a 360° panorama of the city from its highest point. There’s a place where you can drop in anytime for Serbian food and places to party to music spun by top DJs. Beyond the bars, restaurants and clubs, there is also an exciting and colorful lifestyle to explore.

Our guide also highlights how Buda and Pest are actually two different worlds and lifestyles. Pest is swarming, whirling and vibrating. Buda is slower, more comfortable and calmer. Taking this into account, we list our recommendations for the best places to eat breakfast, grab street food, check out Michelin starred restaurants, beer places, child-friendly places, and places with Budapest style in both Buda and Pest. We gathered Budapest’s top trendsetting critics to write subjective recommendations, and we selected only places we have personally tried out and like. “Day & Night Guide to Budapest” is a recommendation and guidebook, not a critical publication. Here you will find important information about everything, including comprehensive profiles, hours, internet availability, and website links.

To be sure, the Castle, Basilica and Heroes’ Square are all sites that shouldn’t be missed. But for us, the city is much more than buildings and statues. Budapest is its people, the language, gastronomy and lifestyle. Upon arriving in a new city, the most important thing to do is obtain information to plan an unforgettable itinerary, and we think that should include Budapest’s lesser-known, fascinating and unforgettable side.

Dive in and discover the city!

Authors

DÁNIEL BART: Beer blogger and Budapest’s number one expert on specialty beers and breweries.
Top Places for Beer Lovers

ALBERT GAZDA: Writer and editor of Gawker Media site Cink.hu, Hungary’s most popular news, opinion, and trend blog.
Top Places for Wine Lovers

RENÁTÓ HORVÁTH and GERGŐ SALAMON: The founders of Eastaste.net are at home here with the music of the Eastern European region, which they distribute it on the global market. #reklámzene #soundtrack
Top Party Places

LAJOS JÁNOSSY: Writer, literary critic and journalist in love with the city and the baths.
Top Baths

ANDRÁS JÓKÚTI: Hungary’s leading food writer, restaurant critic and travel blogger. To follow his English-language video blog, visit: wrff.tv.
Top Hungarian Dishes, Top Places for Breakfast, Top Places for Street Food,
Top Restaurants

ENI ROSTÁS: Cultural critic, journalist and Hungarian literature and French pop music enthusiast.
Top Places to Bring the Kids, Top Outdoor Places

PÉTER SZŰCS: Editor-in-chief of InStyle, he has been working as a journalist and fashion critic for various glossy fashion magazines for over ten years.
Top Places for Budapest Style

GYÖRGY ÚJVÁRI-PINTÉR: Translator, cultural manager, music producer and resident expert on Budapest’s gay scene.
Top Gay Parties

ILDIKÓ TŐKE: Marketing expert, public relations manager and top communications consultant for Budapest’s hospitality industry, bars and clubs.
Top Centers of Culture

Good to Know

Smoking

As of January 2012, it is now against the law to smoke in pubs, bars, restaurants, clubs, work places and institutions. In most places, you can find a separate smoking section or simply stand five meters from the entrance on the street.

Tipping Tipping

10 percent is standard for taxis, meals and drinks (with the exception of drinks ordered at the bar). Some restaurants automatically add a 10–12 percent service charge to the final bill, so always check to see if that is the case. In Hungary, tips are not left on the table following payment. Rather, the tip is included in the total amount you hand over to pay with a verbal indication of how much change you would like back. Saying “köszönöm” (thank you) will indicate that the transaction is complete and that no change is expected back. Note that it is customary to tip for some smaller services as well, such as giving the locker room attendant at the baths 100–200 forint for any assistance.

Emergency Numbers

Dial 104 for an ambulance; for police, 107; for the fire service, 105.

Consulates

www.embassypages.com/hungary

Pharmacies

The Hungarian word for pharmacy is patika or gyógyszertár, although you will see the German word apotheke in use as well. There are plenty of 24-hour pharmacies in the city, though few are in the center. The closest is Déli Gyógyszertár (1123 Budapest, Alkotás utca 1/b.), opposite Déli Station in Buda, and Teréz Patika (1067 Budapest, Teréz körút 41.), near the Oktogon metro station in Pest.

Holidays

Hungarian public holidays are: January 1 (New Year’s Day), March 15 (National Holiday), Easter Sunday and Easter Monday, May 1 (May Day), Whit Monday, August 20 (St. Stephen’s Day), and October 23.

Icons

We’ve put together a guide book to help you discover Budapest. We’ve enhanced the guide book with icons to help you understand the information easier. To check their meaning, please see the icons listed below:

ic_eat place to eat

ic_drink place to drink

ic_dance place to dance

ic_ccard pay with credit card

ic_map address

ic_hours opening hours

ic_price price range

ic_fb facebook page

ic_home home page

Areas

Király Area

1062 Anker köz 1–3.
ANKER KLUB

1075 Király u. 41.
CSIPESZ

1061 Hegedű u. 3.
ISKOLA

1068 Király u. 42.
KADARKA

1075 Király u. 13.
KLIKK BISTROBAR

1075 Király u. 13.
KOLOR

1061 Király u. 46.
KUPLUNG

1073 Erzsébet krt. 43-49.
ORFEUM

1061 Király u. 46.
PATENT 46

1075 Király u. 13.
POINTER PUB

1073 Kertész u. 48
SZIMPLA KÁVÉZÓ – BERLIN CRAFT BEER BAR

1061 Anker köz 1–3.
THE BAR

1061 Káldy Gyula u. 5.
VARIETÉ BISZTRÓ & BÁR

Anker Klub

Anker Klub is a restaurant, bar and nightclub set up in a space that was once a bank. This is one of the best places for lunch in the city, where you can get a quick meal for 4 euros. The kitchen is good, with a solid quality/price ratio. In the afternoon after working hours, the action begins. From Wednesday through Saturday, Anker is full of tourists, locals, creative office workers, hipsters, bicyclists, underground types and artists with crowds spilling out into the pedestrian street in front in the summer. Themed events are often held here for the Budapest advertising industry and the creative community.

ic_map 1062 Anker köz 1–3.

ic_hours Mon–Thu: 9:00–2:00 Fri–Sun: 9:00–4:00

ic_home ankerklub.hu

ic_fb facebook.com/ankerklub

Csipesz

A very pleasant spot on Király utca, which is a street experiencing its second golden age. From afar, you can see the giant blue clothespin (their logo) above the entrance. Csipesz is an upgraded ruin pub that’s a cross between a snack bar and hipster hangout. The young staff are relaxed yet attentive, but don’t expect any bowing and fawning since neither the place nor the neighborhood requires that. Csipesz is friendly, simple and isn’t trying to look like anything other than what it is. Stop by if you’re in the neighborhood and try their excellent grilled sandwiches.

ic_map 1075 Király u. 41.

ic_hours Mon–Sun: 10:00–2:00

ic_fb facebook.com/CsipeszBar

Iskola

While partying and having fun at Iskola, you can see what a real school used to look like in Hungary. The gym is at the entrance, drink lists are concealed in school notebooks, the ladies behind the bar are dressed like school girls and there are blackboards on the walls.

ic_map 1061 Hegedű u. 3.

ic_hours Mon–Tue: 11:30–22:00 Wed–Sat: 11:30–04:00

ic_home iskola.org

ic_fb facebook.com/iskola.hegedu.utca.3

Kadarka

A young, fresh wine bar, where you can find great Hungarian wines and delicacies made from old and forgotten grape varieties. The owner and wait staff are ready to serve and will help anyone who has come especially to taste. You will taste better and better wines until you find the one just for you. The staff are masters at the game of figuring out the perfect wine for your tastes. If you get hungry, foods specially made for wine tasting and cold snacks can be ordered from the kitchen.

ic_map 1068 Király u. 42.

ic_hours Mon–Sun: 16:00–24:00

ic_home kadarkaborbar.hu

ic_fb facebook.com/kadarkabar

Klikk Bistrobar

In the Gozsdu Courtyard, Klikk Bistrobar functions as a restaurant by day and a friendly little bar at night. You can choose from burgers and pizzas on the daytime menu, and at night there is a huge selection of cocktails. From Monday through Saturday, a DJ mixes the music. During the first part of the week, this is a favorite stop for people in the local hospitality industry. This means the place really gets going, since Monday and Tuesday is their weekend.

ic_map 1075 Király u. 13.

ic_hours Mon–Sun: 12:00–24:00

ic_fb facebook.com/KlikkBistrobar

Kolor

There’s nothing surprising about a club that has DJs stacking the records every weekend, but parties even on Monday night? This is possible at Kolor! The result of a couple of years’ thoughtful planning is in Kolor’s interior design, employees’ clothing, style, events and atmosphere of the parties they organize once a month in summer at other venues. Located at the entrance to the Gozsdu Courtyard, this is a large two-level complex that functions as a restaurant during the day. At night, there’s a cocktail bar and terrace upstairs, while downstairs you’ll find everything from DnB to hiphop and house music parties. If you’re looking for something a little quieter, then every Sunday there’s Kolor Kinema, where you may even find a screening in its original language. Tip: if you snowboard in winter, skateboard in summer, and wear your baseball hat backwards, then you’ll definitely find a common denominator with the guys at the bar.

ic_map 1075 Király u. 13.

ic_hours Mon–Sun: 12:00–4:00

ic_home kolorprojekt.hu

ic_fb facebook.com/kolorprojekt

The granddaddy of the ruin pubs, Kuplung (Hungarian for “clutch”) has everything from acoustic concerts to noisy record release parties and contemporary art. When there isn’t a Hungarian DJ, star performers or bands such as Mac DeMarco, The Holydrug Couple and Crystal Stilts will knock your socks off. Graphical artists made the walls of the garden into an underwater world. The name of the place refers to the car repair that once functioned here.

ic_map 1061 Király u. 46.

ic_hours Mon–Thu: 15:00–2:00 Fri: 15:00–5:00 Sat: 16:00–5:00 Sun: 16:00–2:00

ic_home kuplungbp.tumblr.com

ic_fb facebook.com/Kuplung

Orfeum

There is a five-star cabaret nightclub called Orfeum located right next to Pest’s Madách Theatre in the five-star Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel. The atmosphere resurrects the fanciest nightclubs from the beginning of the 20th century. There are swing, R&B, funk and salsa evenings, as well as chanson, variety shows and dinner theater. The dress code is always changing, so the safest thing is to resemble the place: sexy and cool.

ic_map 1073 Erzsébet krt. 43-49.

ic_hours One hour before the program

ic_home orfeumclub.hu

ic_fb facebook.com/orfeum

Top Lists

top places for
beer lovers

Élesztő

If you only have one night to experience Budapest beer culture, this is the place to go. Located just a short stroll off the 4-6 tram, Élesztő (“yeast” in Hungarian) is a great multi-tap bar with the low-budget aesthetics of Budapest’s ruin pubs. Since opening, they have redesigned the place into a steampunk-style center of beer culture with a cozy café that also serves bio vegetable and fruit shakes. Élesztő is part-apartment, part-restaurant, brewing school, beer kitchen, beer and cocktail bar all rolled into one. Their list of twenty-one mostly Hungarian craft beers on tap is continuously updated. An extensive selection and a friendly and professional staff combine to make Élesztő undoubtedly the best craft beer spot in Budapest.

ico1094 Tűzoltó u. 22.

icoMon–Sun: 15:00–3:00

ico elesztohaz.hu

Csakajósör

The “Only Good Beer” shop is Budapest’s number one meeting place for international beer connoisseurs, and Csakajósör’s owner is Budapest’s top beer expert. After studying brewing science, he began selling craft beer four years ago in his little beer shop at a time when there was nothing but industrial lager around. Though his shop keeps expanding to meet growing demand, it’s still crowded most of the time with those perusing his unparalleled selection of international craft brews and enjoying his blunt sense of humor. There are also eight kinds of beer on tap, some of which are the owner’s original brews, such as the Grabanc series.

ico1073 Kertész u. 42.

icoMon–Sat: 14.00–21.00

ico goo.gl/dWAEXt

Léhűtő

A cool downtown hangout for those seeking to immerse themselves in the craft beer lifestyle. In the old days, the léhűtő was the person tasked with cooling the beer during the brewing process. This bar was one of the first places in the Gozsdu Courtyard to sell exclusively craft beer in a downtown style. Today, Léhűtő offers nine beers on tap, cool and uncompromising interior design, a cozy outdoor terrace, and a prime location in the middle of the nightlife district. You can also sample some designer sausages in Léhűtő 2 next door.

ico Gozsdu Udvar/1076 Holló u. 12–14.

ico Mon–Tue: 16:00–24:00, Wed–Thu: 16:00–2:00, Fri–Sat: 16:00–6:00, Sun: 16:00–24:00

ico facebook.com/lehuto.kezmuvessorozo

Skanzen Klub

One of Budapest’s real illegal hangouts with a lot to offer—an adventure! On January 1, 2013, the night that smoking was officially banned in all public places in Hungary, Skanzen Klub opened its doors to those who think drinking beer and smoking cigarettes go hand in hand. The authorities spent a year trying to close it down, ultimately in vain. There is actually nothing illegal about the place, as it’s technically not a pub but a private apartment. Six kinds of Hungarian craft beer flow from taps specially installed so that guests fill their own glasses. Payment is accepted via “contributions” to the price of the beer by throwing coins into a jar. Closed during the summer.

ico1092 Köztelek u. 4/a.

icoMon–Sun: 17:00–24:00

ico goo.gl/jIYXWP

Libri-Shopline PLC
www.bookline.hu

Kultúrkombinát Ltd.
www.kulturkombinat.hu

eBook Producer: Lajos Nagy

Distributor:
eKönyv Magyarország Kft.
www.ekonyv.hu

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ISBN 978 96 3898 554 5